Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit - A Travel Report

Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit is one of the most famous and most popular canoe trips in the world. After having explored Clearwater Lake in Wells Gray Provincial Park by canoe in September 2020, this year we will venture on the 116-kilometer canoe trip through the most impressive landscape I have ever experienced. A trip report with tips and tricks!

Know before you go on the canoe circuit

Most of the following information are taken from the brochure of the Provincial Park. 

Mosquitos suck!

That in itself is nothing new. However, around the 12 lakes of the Bowron Lake Provincal Park Canoe Circuit, the patience of any kayak or canoe adventurer will be bitten within minutes. That's why the most important accessory for the trip is mosquito repellent - in whatever form.

Expect the unexpected weather

Everyone knows there's nothing more unpredictable than weather. This holds true in Bowron Lakes Provincial Park. That's why it's important to be prepared for just about anything at any time. Rain is followed by sunshine and rain again and sunshine again - within minutes.

Timing!

For the whole trip you should plan between six and ten days. With your own canoe or kayak you have ten days. If you rent a canoe or kayak on site, you get a time limit from the provider. We rented directly in Bowron Lake Provincial Park and therefore had 7 days.

Communication

There is no cell phone reception throughout the Provincial Park. However, so that people can communicate in an emergency, six emergency radios have been placed on the Canoe Circuit. These are used to report an emergency.

Clothing

Clothes made of polyester and wool do best on this trip, as they wick moisture away from the body and keep you warm. Avoid clothes made of cotton and jeans. Don't forget swimwear, as some lakes are quite inviting to cool down on hot days.

Portages

Portages are the distances between lakes that the boat must be transported overland. This can be done manually, so the canoe is carried, or on a cart, a simple construction on which the boat is placed and pulled over the portage.

Portages make up only eight percent of the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit's total distance. However, that eight percent is in the form of an intense endurance workout. To make overland transportation a little easier, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Place the boat on the cart in such a way that the front fastening strap of the cart can be fixed directly on the center brace of the canoe.
• Load the approved bags into the boat so that their weight is distributed to the area behind the center brace of the canoe and thus directly to the portage cart.
• Place the load so that the canoe is balanced. To check the balance, lift the canoe at the end or front and possibly reposition some bags.
• Cover the load with a tarp to prevent it from getting wet in the rain.

Day 1 - Preparations, portages, Kibbee Lake and Indianpoint Lake

Der erste Morgen beginn feucht. Es hat die Nacht hindurch geregnet und auch am Morgen Trommeln noch immer dicke Regentropfen gegen das Zeltdach. Also rein in die Regenhose und die Rainjacket und ab geht es.

Register for the canoe circuit

Before we can get started, we have to register at Park Registration. So BC Parks knows how many people are on the circuit. We can sign up since we have previously booked the trip online and payed the fees.

• Fee for the use of the park: CAD 60 per person
• Fee for the use of a canoe or kayak: CAD 18 per boat

These fees are for the use of the park. This does not include the rental of a canoe or kayak, since many visitors use their own boats. However, there are numerous providers directly at Bowron Lake. We received our canoe and the accompanying canoe-cart directly from the Canoe man at Park Registration. We paid for the rental of our canoe for seven days in total CAD 290 plus taxes:

• Canoe: CAD 250 + tax
• Canoe Cart: CAD 40 + Tax

Further information on prices and conditions can be found in the Park Brochure of Bowron Lake Provincial Park. At Park Registration we buy a laminated map of the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit for CAD 5. This ensures that we know where to go at all times.

Weighing allowed canoe load

After registration and after receiving the canoe for the next seven days, we go over to the scale. However, it is not the participants who are weighed, but the things that you want to leave in the boat during the portages. In order not to damage the trails and nature in the Provincial Park, there is a maximum weight for the load of the canoe. Everything that exceeds the allowed 27 kilograms must be transported by hand or on the back.

An der Waage wird genau festgehalten, welche Taschen oder Kisten beim Transport über Land im Boot verbleiben dürfen. Die Information kommt auf einen Zettel, der wird laminiert und am Boot befestigt, damit die Ranger auf dem Circuit jederzeit kontrollieren und nachvollziehen können, was man im Boot haben darf. Und es wird kontrolliert, also no cheating! Sobald wir den Zettel am Boot befestigt haben dürfen wir los.

Kibbee Lake

We dragged ourselves up the first hill at the Park Registration with the fully packed canoe - first break - puuuh -, and master the rest of the 2.8 kilometer long first portage. A combination of endurance and strength is required, both highly developed competences of both of us. By the way, the light rain turned into a consistent splash with thick drops. One would think that the mosquitoes would also become less active due to the rain - far from it. Those little suckers are in top form and gather in fours on the backs of our already bitten hands.

At the end of the portage, however, the first wow experience awaits us in the form of a small idyllic bay in marshland surrounded by dense forest.

Kibbee Lake is the first of 12 lakes of the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit and just under 2.4 kilometers long. This allows us to slowly get back into our rowing routine: Tilo in the front paddling for speed, Rico in the back steering the boat with safe C and J strokes. We paddle straight ahead across Kibbee Lake. We can already see the marker for the portage from far away. At the Campground next to the portage we meet a group of campers: four adults with three small children. We will meet them several times during the trip. They have spent their first night here.

Indianpoint Lake

The second portage - it is still raining mosquitoes - brings us to the shores of Indianpoint Lake. According to the laminated map there is a Woodlot on the left side of the lake. At Woodlots BC Parks provides us with logs which you can split in the evening to make a fire. So we set out to conquer Indianpoint Lake counterclockwise - at the same time the rain conquers our canoe. We don't conquer wood, by the way, because we apparently misinterpreted the map. Unfortunately, there is not only no Woodlot on the south side of the lake, but also no campsites. They are all on the north side. The raindrops have meanwhile been joined by quite a considerable wind, and the north shore thus seems far away. We therefore paddle the entire lake on the first day: 6.4 kilometers.

Die Portage vom Indianpoint Lake zum Isaac Lake ist etwas versteckt hinter einer – selbst in strömendem Regen – berauschend schönen Sumpflandschaft. Orange Markierungen weisen uns den Weg durch den sumpfigen Flusslauf. Am Ende des Indianpoint Lake bin ich ziemlich am Ende, was an Hunger, Durst und Kälte liegt. Also erstmal etwas Warmes essen. Während wir wärmenden Couscous, Tee und Kaffee zu uns nehmen, legt eine Gruppe von vier jungen Männern in zwei Kanus an. Sie haben keine Portage-Carts und somit das große Glück, nicht nur sämtliches Gepäck, sondern auch beide Kanus auf dem Rücken die schlammigen 2,8 Kilometer entlang zu tragen. Wir bedauern die vier, beschliessen, die Portage auch noch in Angriff zu nehmen und am ersten Campingplatz am Isaac Lake unser Nachtlager aufzuschlagen. Auf der Portage versinkt das Kanu mehrmals im Schlamm und meine Schuhe erhalten eine vortreffliche Schlammpatina. Ein echter Spaß für alle Beteiligten.

Campground 12 ist der auserwählte Ort, den wir – mittlerweile nassen Pudeln ähnelnd – ansteuern. An Land entpacken wir das Kanu und genießen die Sonnenstrahlen, die sich durch die dicke Wolkendecke kämpfen. Wenig später wird es hell und die Sonne kommt noch einmal hervor, so dass wir auf der aufgespanten Leine unsere Schuhe, Handschuhe, Regenjacken und Regenhosen tocknen können. Hätten wir das vorher gewusst, dass die Sonne herauskommt, sobald wir anlegen! Das Zelt steht, die Hammock hängt und wir mampfen unser Abendessen und genießen den Ausblick auf den Isaac Lake.

Day 2 and 3 - Isaac Lake

Breakfast and Relaxation

At the morning of the second day we are greeted by fog billowing low over Lake Isaac. But it doesn't take long and the sky clears. Rays of sunlight fight their way through and soon the campsite is bathed in warming sunlight. We have a leisurely breakfast and then a little later set off to enjoy the breathtakingly beautiful 6.8 kilometer long western part of Isaac Lake.

In contrast to the wet and windy experience of the first day, Isaac Lake presents itself against a cloudless sky and with a mirror-like surface. No wind seems to move across the lake and so we pick up our paddles and head out. We spent the first night at campsite 12, so we plan to spend the second night at site 20 or 21a.

Westside of Isaac Lake - 6.8 km

We set sail at around 10:45 and gently glide across the west arm of Isaac Lake. On our way we pick up some wood at one of the woodlots along the shore. Right on the corner of Isaac Lake are campsites 15 and 15a. From here we have a magnificent view of the nearly 31 kilometer long main arm of Isaac Lake and the panorama spreading along its shore and beyond the horizon. With open mouths we eat our lunch around 12:00.

Mainarm of Isaac Lake - 31.2 km

After this refreshment, we venture back onto the floodwaters around 1:00 p.m. and paddle along the east side of Isaac Lake in search of a campsite for the night. Some campgrounds around the lakes of the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit offer small shelters where you can find shelter in bad weather. We find one at site 18, which is nestled in a wide-open creek delta full of bright pebbles and offers us a short refreshing snack break along the way - 2:45 pm.

Relaxing on Campground 28

After the exertions of the second day - see previous paragraph - we decide to take it a little bit slower on the third day - since we have tackled almost all of Isaac Lake already. Around noon, however, we set off, as some of the other campers are already passing us by in their canoes or kayaks. "If they all overtake us now, we will have the same problem as yesterday", we think to ourselves and aim for the end of Isaac Lake, more precisely for campsite 28.

The paddle to the end of the lake is incredibly beautiful and relaxing and the fantastic view of the mountains compensates for all the effort. We complete the distance between campground 25 and 28 in about two hours. When we arrive at the last campground at Isaac Lake, we are the only ones. So we secure the best spot and let the third evening on the Bowron Lake Provincial Park Canoe Circuit end comfortably with a fire and an equally fire-red burning sky.

By the way the campground consists of six spots plus five groupspots. These spots are reserved for groups of seven people or more. BC Parks defines for these groups at the Park Registration exactly which campsites are to be approached and when. Thus, on the one hand, the pace is predetermined with which the group must move, but on the other hand, the night camps are also reserved and you save yourself from an adventure as we have experienced in the evening of the second day. Later in the evening the four adults with the three small children arrive at the site. Apparently it is the birthday of one of the children, because the shelter is soon decorated with festive garlands, a small birthday cake is on the table and everyone sings "Happy Birthday".

Day 4 - Isaac River, McLeary Lake, Cariboo River and Lanezi Lake

Chute and Rollercoaster

For once we relax intensively, let our souls dangle and argue with ourselves whether we want to bypass the chute at the end of Isaac Lake on foot or tackle them by boat. What is it about? Isaac Lake flows into the Isaac River as a chute, turbulent rapids (Rollercoaster) and waterfalls. Chute and Rollercoaster may be mastered by experienced canoeists or kayakers and a lot of fun is had. However, BC Parks explicitly recommends taking the nearly 3-kilometer portage. But there are also daredevils who dare the way over the Chute.

McLeary Lake

Once you have crossed Isacc River by foot or boat, you reach McLeary Lake, which is just under a kilometer long. We set out the next morning at around 8:00 a.m. to tackle the nearly 2.8-kilometer portage. An hour later we dip our paddles into McLeary Lake Even though the lake doesn't seem large, the view that reveals itself to us is tremendous. At the end of McLeary Lake there are two options: the main channel of the Cariboo River or the marshes. We follow the main channel.

Cariboo River

On the Cariboo River we encounter a current for the first time, but it is kind to us and pushes along at a leisurely pace. BC Parks demands special caution from canoeists crossing the Cariboo River, as the shallow waters are peppered with small rocks, tree trunks lying in the water, and other hazards that can cause a canoe or kayak to capsize in the worst case. We are spared from all this and can rather concentrate on the truly pictoresque landscape. In places it feels as if we are paddling through a Bob Ross painting.

Lanezi Lake

The inflow of Cariboo River into Lanezi Lake seems almost like a harbinger of what is to come. The current increases sharply and causes the boat to sway. Navigation briefly becomes more difficult and paddling in front also becomes more strenuous. But all this is nothing compared to the squalls that sweep across Lanezi Lake. We fight our way across the lake, keeping close to the shore. Waves crash against the boat and make it sway. All in all, an adventurous but also scary experience. The lake is 14.8 kilometers long, but in our memory the wind has blown away the decimal point. And so the conclusion about Lanezi lake is quite clear: magnificent view, but without enjoyment factor.

Campgrounds

There are six campgrounds on the shores of Lanezi Lake. Number 34 serves us as a mooring for an early lunch around 11:00. There is also a small hut there where we can shelter from the sun. However, caution is required, because according to a carving on the outhouse the Boogie Man lives here! At least, this is what the four canoe-carrying men from the portage - remember? - tell us. What is there to lose, we think to ourselves and consume our meal without visitation or other incidents.

Since there are still three campsites, and it is only 11:00, we paddle on and head out for campsites 35 or 36. The former is four or five kilometers away, and only a firepit sticking half out of the water suggests that it existed at all. So we continue on roaring waves toward 36, which is of course also occupied. The same is true for 37. We know the deal! But honestly, it doesn't bother us much, because we just want to get off this windy Lanezi Bi*ch Lake. The increasing winds make every stroke harder and in places we have the feeling of being driven backwards. With combined forces we finally make it onto Sandy Lake and reach the sandy beach of Campground 37a around 4:30 pm. Our spot for this night.

Day 5 - Sandy Lake, Babcock Creek, Babcock Lake, Skoi Lake, Spectacle Lakes and Portagen

Sandy Lake and Cariboo River

Sandy Lake continues as Cariboo River. We set sail shortly after 10:00 a.m. and enjoy the smooth ride over the initially almost glassy water surface. On the river we get a slight current, but it pushes us more than it counteracts us. On the way from Sandy Lake to Babcock Lake lies Unna Lake. From there we could take a short walk to an impressive waterfall. But we decide to ignore Unna Lake including the waterfalls and to directly take the turnoff to Babcock Creek. There, shortly after the ranger station, the first of the last three portages is waiting for us. We reach the portage around 11:15 am.

Babcock Creek and Babcock Lake

The Babcock Creek portage is 1.2 kilometers long and is populated by mosquitoes. No fewer than 20 of these bloodsucking bastards buzz around each of us during the short stretch over land. Whether this is due to the light drizzle or simply part of the overall package is not entirely clear to us. We spray each other from top to bottom with the bug spray, which doesn't help against the buzzing, but at least keeps the mosquitoes from landing. On the path we notice conspicuously accurate hoof tracks and assume that this path is also used by moose. Unfortunately, in the absence of a moose to question, we were not able to find out whether moose also feel so strongly harassed by mosquitoes.

Babcock Lake itself is rather unspectacular, at least in the direction we paddle, as the impressive mountains are behind us. But the lake is also part of the western circuit of the Bowron Lake Provincial Park Canoe Circuit. If you can't or don't want to take a whole week or even ten days off, you can also just do the west side of the circuit. This currently officially ends at the portage from Babcock Lake to Babcock Creek, but allows a detour to Unna Lake.

Skoi Lake

Between Babcock Lake and Skoi Lake are 0.4 kilometers of land. A piece of cake! Skoi Lake itself is also only 0.8 kilometers long. We meander through a beautiful swamp landscape with lush water grass on the right and left of the channel. In the meantime, it has started to drip slightly again, which is why we equip ourselves with rain jackets and rain pants at the end of Skoi Lake at around 1:00 p.m. before we tackle the last portage of the circuit to Spectacle Lake.

Spectacle Lake

Spectacle and Swan Lake form a 12.8 kilometer long unit. Here the focus is mainly on the fun of paddling and less on the surrounding landscape. Yes, we are a bit spoiled by the days at Isaac Lake. Nevertheless, Spectacle Lake also offers impressive views of the landscape behind us. But this does not detract from the enjoyment. We paddle up the lake, which has disturbingly high but inexplicably gentle waves. Also the wind, which is to be expected with such waves, does not appear - fortunately.

At around 3:00 p.m. we arrive at campsite 48, which has both a sleeping shelter and a cooking shelter. The site is large and located on a wooded peninsula with numerous small trails, plenty of space for paddle-weary campers and an impressively large and aggressive mosquito population - also visible in the photo below. Shortly after, two other canoes reach the site. And a little later the heroes of the Chute, which you can see above in the video. We strike up a conversation and become friends. Together we let the evening end comfortably at a perfectly burning campfire - mosquito-dispersing smoke included.

Day 6 - Swan Lake, Bowron River, Bowron Lake and a Moose

Swan Lake

Still on the evening of the fifth day - bug spray all used up - we decide to paddle to the end of the Canoe Circuit the next morning. More precisely, from campsite 48 across Swan Lake, along Pavich Island, through Bowron River and along the shore of Bowron Lake to the Bowron Lake Registration Center.

The landscape surrounding Swan Lake is made to be a habitat for bears and other wildlife. It probably is, but except for bald eagles circling overhead and hundreds of dragonflies, we encounter only signs warning of grizzlies.

Bowron River

Swan Lake connects Bowron Lake by Bowron River. Here, too, we stay on the Main Channel, following the orange markings on wooden posts and let ourselves drift with the gentle current. I am fascinated by these river courses, because you never know exactly what is waiting for you behind the next river bend. The weather, on the other hand, behaves as expected: unpredictable. And then it happens, in the moment where I already thought to myself "A moose would have been nice, at least one". In the middle of a small bay stands a moose. Not far away from it in the somewhat higher grass and also somewhat closer to the fairway stands a calf.

Bowron Lake

Bowron Lake gives its name to the Provincial Park and the Canoe Circuit. To be honest, nothing more than that can be attributed to it. Compared to the eleven other lakes on the trip, Bowron Lake stinks, especially since the wind-blown lake stands between us and our destination. Are we doing it injustice? Maybe a little, but we agree that Bowron Lake is the least impressive lake compared to all the other lakes on the Bowron Lake Provincial Park Canoe Circuit. Only the private homes and lodges that appear toward the end of the lake are impressive. As always, the last few meters feel the most exhausting, especially since we have to fight strong winds that hit us head-on. But we make it and arrive - overjoyed to have completed one of the most popular canoe trips in the world.

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