When it comes to the design of a cabin there are some things that can't be undone. Hence we need to think about it and decide carefully.
Basically, a cabin is a large wooden box. So you need a platform, walls and of course a roof. However, there are different options for each of the three components of the cabin design that we have to consider in advance. In this article, you can read which options we have decided on for the time being.
Collecting ideas
Since we will be building the cabin in the woods ourselves - i.e. not using a ready-made construction kit or even prefabricated components - we need to take a closer look at the individual construction stages beforehand. Since it is always easier to start from an existing example, we looked around on the Internet for other cabins and cabins. Thereby we found a cabin design from Raven House that roughly corresponds to our ideas. One could also buy the construction plans for the said design directly, which we then do directly.
So based on these plans we start to plan our own Cabin. A long rectangle with an annex for a bathroom on one side and a veranda and a study on the other. We adjust the orientation and positioning of the individual rooms so that we like it and the windows are optimally aligned with the sunrise and sunset. And, of course, the whole thing has to fit the available space. After it's clear what's going to be built, it's on to the how.
Cabin Design - Platform
Everything is based on the foundation - literally. After all, in most cases, the foundation of a house is made of concrete. But in the case of a cabin in the woods, this is a rather stupid option. Of course, the construction should affect the surrounding as little as possible. Thus, in our opinion, digging a huge hole and filling it with concrete is not an option.
Pile Foundation
In order for the cabin to still stand solidly, we can't completely do without concrete. So we will drive 12 concrete piers into the ground, each at the ends and in the middle of the support beams on which the wooden platform of the cabin will rest.
For these piers, we either dig holes in the ground, into which the foundation posts are inserted. Or, if the ground is bedrock, holes are drilled into which metal rods are inserted.
In both cases, large cardboard tubes are then inserted (in the case of the large hole in the ground) or placed on top (in the case of the hole in the rock) and filled with concrete.
When the piers are embedded, 12 concrete sausages will peek out of the ground. Finally, metal anchors are attached to these twelve foundation piers, which are used to fix the overlying support beams.
Supportbeams
Support special exhibitio
Where exactly the foundation piers are placed is basically determined by the timber chosen for the support beams. Each beam can only span a certain length horizontally without being supported by a vertical beam.
This so-called span depends, among other things, on the type of wood, the dimensions and quality of the beams, as well as the expected load bearing capacity. All these factors thus determine the maximum span that a beam may hang freely.
In the USA and Canada, there is the International Residential Building Code (IRC) from 2018. There, in chapter 5, a table can be found in which the maximum range is stored for each conceivable combination.
Our chosen Cabin design uses 24-foot-long 2×10 beams. Three rows of 2 x 3 beams side by side result in a cabin base length of 48 feet, which is just under 8.6 meters. By the way, the cabin will be about 3.5 m wide.
Subfloor
When the cabin base of foundation piers and support beams is in place, the subfloor is built on top.
This subfloor consists of a framework or skeleton of interconnected 2×8 floor joists and the floor plates bolted to them. The floor plates form a skin, so to speak, around the skeleton of the platform.
The span mentioned above also applies to the joists. In addition, smaller stabilizing wood pieces, aka blocking, are used between the joists when building the platform. On the one hand, this makes the entire construction more stable. On the other hand, this blocking is important in all those places where high loads are to be expected. For example, under a bathtub.
Our chosen Cabin design uses 12-foot-long 2×8 beams. These are placed across the support beams on the Cabin base and equipped with a frame (Rim Joist).
Cabin Design - Walls
For the walls, there are fewer options. The bottom line here is mainly the desired height and thickness of the outer walls. Then, according to the requirements or individual ideas, the necessary wooden beams are used. In our case, these are 2×6 wooden beams with a length of eight feet. We use this thickness because it allows us to implement optimal insulation. The walls of the cabin consist of several layers, all of which contribute to safety and insulation: interior, core, exterior.
Inside
If you look at the walls from the inside, you will first see wooden planks running horizontally. These are about 9 centimeters wide and are stapled to the "wall" behind them at a distance of not quite half a centimeter from each other.
"Wall" because the said horizontal planks are nailed to wooden beams running vertically almost 38 millimeters wide, spaced approximately 60 centimeters apart.
These wooden beams, in turn, are attached to a drywall painted black.
Now the question of all questions: Why the hell is that? The simple answer: Design, baby! It just looks freaking awesome:
Core
The core of the outer walls consists of 2×6 wooden beams, that is, 4 cm thick and 14 cm wide. The beams are placed at a distance of, about 60 centimeters from each other and, together with a top beam and a bottom beam, form the frame and structure of the house.
Insulation is stuffed into the resulting gaps. We will use rock wool for this, as it has a pretty good insulation rating and is much better than fiberglass insulation altogether.
Once the insulation is inserted into the wooden framework, it is wrapped on the inside by a vapor barrier. This membrane, ensures that moisture in the air is discharged from the inside to the outside, but can not come from the outside to the inside.
On the outside of the wooden framework OSB panels are attached. This is how we get stability. It's like an IKEA shelf; as long as the back panel is not nailed down, the whole pile of wood can collapse.
Outside
On top of the OSB panels comes the so-called "house wrap". This is another membrane that - similar to the vapor barrier inside - ensures that moisture and air from the outside cannot get into the wall.
When this I'll just call it a weather barrier is in place, such a house is effectively sealed. And looks like a wrapped gift. Admittedly, a gift wrapped with ugly paper, but still.
The exterior continues with wooden beams just under 4 cm wide, which are vertically attached at a distance of 60 centimeters. By the way, this is called "strapping".
The outer wall cladding will be mounted on the strapping. What exactly we will use there, is not yet quite clear. We may stick to the proposed design in which the beams are set at a small distance apart, just as they are on the inside. But maybe we will also deviate. We'll see.
Cabin Design - Roof
The last important and basic decision is the one for the shape of the roof. Considering the fact that we want to build the cottage ourselves, we should choose the simplest possible roof structure. That is, a variant that is as simple as possible to erect and also maintain. Of the countless conceivable roof shapes, this means that almost all are eliminated: no barn-style roof, mansard roof, butterfly or gambrel roof. We have limited ourselves to two options.
Shed Roof
Shed roofs are often used only on garages or sheds. However, for use on a cabin and for beginners in the construction business, the mono-pitch roof convinces with relatively simple construction and low cost.
The weather conditions present at the site of construction must be taken into account when deciding whether or not to use a mono-pitch roof, as the high side of the house should not be exposed to strong weather conditions.
Gable Roof
The good old gable roof impresses with the simplicity of construction and sturdiness. Snow and rain are evenly drained and the installation of dormers is conceivable and can also be retroactively done.
However, gable roofs often limit the light in the house, but this can be remedied by skylights. However, this has a financial impact.
And what will it be now? It will be a gable roof! So one with a peak. Ideally, the whole thing will end up looking like the picture below. This is the original cabin design from Raven House.
Cabin Playlist
Music is Emotion. Music holds Memory. This is the soundtrack for the build of our Cabin at the Upper Sunshine Coast.
So finden wir jederzeit zurück zu den Momenten voller Herausforderung, Freude und Zufriedenheit.
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Cabin-Blog-Zeitleiste
All our posts about RITICOLO Cabin have been organized in this fancy looking timeline. Pretty cool, eh! Have fun looking around and leave a comment if you enjoy what you are reading.
Trees, a Wood Stove, Lumber and Paws
Vapor barrier - cabin interior
Thermal Insulation and What it Takes to Get There
Roof – The big Finale
Roofing for Dummies
Roofing - shingles or metal roof?
Cabin - New Year Progress
Cabin Timeline
Roofing – Part Two
Roofing - Part One
Gable Walls and LVL
Lofts
Header Beam – Ein dicker Balken, der alles zusammenhält Zum Bau der Außenwände hatten wir…
Things we learned so far
Framing the Cabin
Basecamp
From concrete piers to the finished subfloor
It's amazing what you can accomplish in a few weekends. During the construction of our
Demolition, Homework and some Problems
Progress - Getting Rid of Stuff
First Steps in Lund
On the February long weekend (Family Day), we pack up our MINI and head to our
