All’s well that roofs well
Let me start by saying that the way roofs are built here in British Columbia, and therefore the way a roof is built presented in this post, may differ from the way roofs are built elsewhere. We base our roof construction on the approach told to us by local professionals and also on what is specified in the province's general building code (BC Building Code).
How to build a roof – two options
The rafters have been installed and thus the framework for further roof construction is in place. Apparently, opinions differ as to how to proceed from here. There is agreement on the necessary components: a construction of horizontal and vertical wooden battens (strapping), waterproof membrane and sheathing. The point of contention is whether the sheathing goes under or on top of the strapping, and thus whether the actual roof is attached to the strapping or to the sheathing. Which is correct? We don't know. We can only tell you how we did it and why. But to help you understand what options we have, let's briefly mention both:
How we do it
Well. BC Building Code requires that there is an airgap between the top of the insulation and the bottom of the sheathing allowing air to circulate. Circulate in this context means that air can flow from the lower part of the roof – the bottom of the rafters – to the ridge. This provides not only optimal drainage but also regulates the temperature quite. Our rafters are 10 inches. The insulation for the roof totals about 9 inches thick. So we have to go with option two: put the strapping directly on the rafters and then cover it with sheathing. That's the only way we'll allow the prescribed space for airflow.
This means, once again, minimal replanning, since the original plan is designed according to option one. Hence, we have ordered the materials as for option one. But that's not a problem, because we can use all the battens even with option two. However, they are not enough, so we have to buy a few more. But even that is no obstacle for our MINI.
Strapping
Rafters are the vertical beams that are spaced 24 inches apart. On top of those rafters the aforementioned wooden construction will be installed. In our case, this consists of 1 × 4 wooden slats laid on top of each other and nailed together. Why 1×4? Because they were needed for the build as of option one anyway, so we just use them elsewhere. Smart, ey!
Since we try to produce as little waste as possible, we spend a lot of time calculating and planning exactly how long we have to cut the slats for the strapping. But that's just part of it, especially since the prices for wood have once again risen enormously and we want to act not only ecologically but also economically sustainable.
Sheathing
On the future bedroom we have already finished the strapping and have started the next step: the sheathing. We did this, because we can try how to do it on the not so steep roof, and we have a storage area for the strapping and remaining sheathing that needs to go on to the main roof. The sheathing is simply nailed to the strapping. From below it looks like this:
By the way, a sheathing plate measures 4 × 8 feet, is quite heavy and immensely unwieldy. You can imagine that moving the wooden boards involved a lot of sweat and, in some places, cursing – at almost 30 degrees. But there's no prize without diligence, the boards have to go on the roof. After all, the rain will come at some point. That by the way is our goal for this year. We want to make the cabin as weatherproof as possible before winter comes. And winterproof means that there is a lid on the wooden box so that no more water can get in. Fortunately putting up strapping and sheathing is very satisfying because again you can see progress very quickly.
Membrane
Wood has the unpleasant characteristic that it is not completely leak-proof. We have something in common there. In order for missing waterproofness (is this a word – a who cares) of the sheathing to lead to a permanent and unwanted humidification of the interior, we can do something. A waterproof membrane that is stapled onto the sheathing. For this, there is an oversized stapler, as civil servants may know from their (night)dreams. Instead of the waterproof membrane, you can probably just use tar paper and gnaw that onto the wooden boards. But we are fancy and decide for the good stuff in blue.
The wind-, water-, snow-, hail-, storm-, tornado- and anything-else-proof membrane is super easy to work with. The stuff is laid from the bottom up, because you automatically have the overlaps the right way around. Since water has the intoxicating property of flowing from top to bottom, you should make sure that the same path along the roof surface is well sealed. So you lay down one row of the membrane, staple the blue tape in place, and then lay the next row on top with a predetermined overhang. At the same time, staple the bottom sheet again to ensure that water drains correctly onto the bottom sheet and not into a possible crack.
As is known, a pointed roof like ours has two sides. Where these two sides meet, a gap remains. And this gap is intentional, so that the air can circulate - remember? When the roof is eventually finished, this open strip will be covered with a so-called ridge cap that will divert water to the sides. But until that happens, the gap must also be stapled shut with the membrane. An adventurous, strenuous and at the same time tiring affair. But all the work is worth the effort when you can sit down with a cup of coffee and mumble a little proudly to yourself: We built that all by ourselves.
Cabin Playlist
Music is Emotion. Music holds Memory. This is the soundtrack for the build of our Cabin at the Upper Sunshine Coast.
So finden wir jederzeit zurück zu den Momenten voller Herausforderung, Freude und Zufriedenheit.
Cabin-Blog-Zeitleiste
All our posts about RITICOLO Cabin have been organized in this fancy looking timeline. Pretty cool, eh! Have fun looking around and leave a comment if you enjoy what you are reading.
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