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Roofing – Part Two

Our cabin is getting a roof. This post is about the roof construction and how we are allowed to build a roof in British Columbia.

All’s well that roofs well

Let me start by saying that the way roofs are built here in British Columbia, and therefore the way a roof is built presented in this post, may differ from the way roofs are built elsewhere. We base our roof construction on the approach told to us by local professionals and also on what is specified in the province's general building code (BC Building Code).

How to build a roof – two options

The rafters have been installed and thus the framework for further roof construction is in place. Apparently, opinions differ as to how to proceed from here. There is agreement on the necessary components: a construction of horizontal and vertical wooden battens (strapping), waterproof membrane and sheathing. The point of contention is whether the sheathing goes under or on top of the strapping, and thus whether the actual roof is attached to the strapping or to the sheathing. Which is correct? We don't know. We can only tell you how we did it and why. But to help you understand what options we have, let's briefly mention both:

Some say you put the sheathing and waterproof membrane on the rafters first, and on top it comes the strapping, which holds the actual roof, whatever material it is made of.
Others say you put the strapping directly on the rafters, on top of it comes the sheathing and waterproof membrane, and last but not least, the roof, whatever material it is made of.

How we do it

Well. BC Building Code requires that there is an airgap between the top of the insulation and the bottom of the sheathing allowing air to circulate. Circulate in this context means that air can flow from the lower part of the roof – the bottom of the rafters – to the ridge. This provides not only optimal drainage but also regulates the temperature quite. Our rafters are 10 inches. The insulation for the roof totals about 9 inches thick. So we have to go with option two: put the strapping directly on the rafters and then cover it with sheathing. That's the only way we'll allow the prescribed space for airflow.

This means, once again, minimal replanning, since the original plan is designed according to option one. Hence, we have ordered the materials as for option one. But that's not a problem, because we can use all the battens even with option two. However, they are not enough, so we have to buy a few more. But even that is no obstacle for our MINI.




Strapping

Rafters are the vertical beams that are spaced 24 inches apart. On top of those rafters the aforementioned wooden construction will be installed. In our case, this consists of 1 × 4 wooden slats laid on top of each other and nailed together. Why 1×4? Because they were needed for the build as of option one anyway, so we just use them elsewhere. Smart, ey!

Since we try to produce as little waste as possible, we spend a lot of time calculating and planning exactly how long we have to cut the slats for the strapping. But that's just part of it, especially since the prices for wood have once again risen enormously and we want to act not only ecologically but also economically sustainable.

Two 1×4 wooden slats roughly add up to the same thickness as a 2×4 beam.
In direct comparison, you can see the installed strapping at the bottom and the still immaculate rafters at the top.
1×4 wooden slats are nailed horizontally to the rafters, creating a very stable structure.
From a little further away, it looks like a giant tic-tac-toe field.




Sheathing

On the future bedroom we have already finished the strapping and have started the next step: the sheathing. We did this, because we can try how to do it on the not so steep roof, and we have a storage area for the strapping and remaining sheathing that needs to go on to the main roof. The sheathing is simply nailed to the strapping. From below it looks like this:

The bedroom with finished roof truss
At the transition from the main house to the bedroom, two roof slopes meet. You can still see through here.

By the way, a sheathing plate measures 4 × 8 feet, is quite heavy and immensely unwieldy. You can imagine that moving the wooden boards involved a lot of sweat and, in some places, cursing – at almost 30 degrees. But there's no prize without diligence, the boards have to go on the roof. After all, the rain will come at some point. That by the way is our goal for this year. We want to make the cabin as weatherproof as possible before winter comes. And winterproof means that there is a lid on the wooden box so that no more water can get in. Fortunately putting up strapping and sheathing is very satisfying because again you can see progress very quickly.

Front view. The wooden box gets so slowly a lid
Left: Roof without wooden construction. Right: Roof with wooden construction.
The red strips are tuck tape. This is used to tape over the seams between the panels so that no water can run in.
By the way, the large square in the roof marks the place where a skylight will be installed.
Skylights come into the roof on both sides directly opposite each other




Membrane

Wood has the unpleasant characteristic that it is not completely leak-proof. We have something in common there. In order for missing waterproofness (is this a word – a who cares) of the sheathing to lead to a permanent and unwanted humidification of the interior, we can do something. A waterproof membrane that is stapled onto the sheathing. For this, there is an oversized stapler, as civil servants may know from their (night)dreams. Instead of the waterproof membrane, you can probably just use tar paper and gnaw that onto the wooden boards. But we are fancy and decide for the good stuff in blue.

The wind-, water-, snow-, hail-, storm-, tornado- and anything-else-proof membrane is super easy to work with. The stuff is laid from the bottom up, because you automatically have the overlaps the right way around. Since water has the intoxicating property of flowing from top to bottom, you should make sure that the same path along the roof surface is well sealed. So you lay down one row of the membrane, staple the blue tape in place, and then lay the next row on top with a predetermined overhang. At the same time, staple the bottom sheet again to ensure that water drains correctly onto the bottom sheet and not into a possible crack.

The membrane on the bedroom roof, here we still used the Tuck Tape to seal the protrusions. But since it does not stick to the membrane, we have henceforth dispensed with it.
The weatherproof membrane is attached with overlap to prevent water from getting through.

As is known, a pointed roof like ours has two sides. Where these two sides meet, a gap remains. And this gap is intentional, so that the air can circulate - remember? When the roof is eventually finished, this open strip will be covered with a so-called ridge cap that will divert water to the sides. But until that happens, the gap must also be stapled shut with the membrane. An adventurous, strenuous and at the same time tiring affair. But all the work is worth the effort when you can sit down with a cup of coffee and mumble a little proudly to yourself: We built that all by ourselves.

The Ridge Cap also needs to be protected from water, so I swing my body onto the roof and staple the membrane in place.
Cabin Playlist

Music is Emotion. Music holds Memory. This is the soundtrack for the build of our Cabin at the Upper Sunshine Coast.
So finden wir jederzeit zurück zu den Momenten voller Herausforderung, Freude und Zufriedenheit.

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Cabin-Blog-Zeitleiste

All our posts about RITICOLO Cabin have been organized in this fancy looking timeline. Pretty cool, eh! Have fun looking around and leave a comment if you enjoy what you are reading.

05 June 2023
Roof – The big Finale
Das Dach auf unserer Cabin ist endlich vollständig gedeckt. Doch bis es dazu kam, mussten…
05 June 2023
24 April 2023
Roofing for Dummies
Im April 2023 decken wir das Dach auf unserer Cabin an der Upper Sunshine Coast….
24 April 2023
24 February 2023
Cabin - New Year Progress
It is the first long weekend of the year and this means we are on it again. The roof of the cabin wants to be covered. And the interior of the cabin saw some major changes too.
24 February 2023
03 January 2023
Cabin Timeline
Cabin construction in a visual chronological outline of the year 2022.
03 January 2023
01 August 2022
Roofing - Part One
Our Cabin at the Upper Sunshine Coast is taking shape. Today we are framing the roof and more.
01 August 2022
10 July 2022
Gable Walls and LVL
Our Cabin at the Upper Sunshine Coast gets gable walls and a ridge beam.
10 July 2022
03 July 2022
Lofts

Header Beam – Ein dicker Balken, der alles zusammenhält Zum Bau der Außenwände hatten wir…

03 July 2022
01 July 2022
Things we learned so far
Der Bau der Cabin ist ein steter Lernprozess. Einige Lektionen, die wir gelernt haben, sind…
01 July 2022
30 June 2022
Framing the Cabin
Our Cabin at the Upper Sunshine Coast is taking shape. Today we are framing the exterior walls.
30 June 2022
11 June 2022
Basecamp
Den Workshop auf unserem Grundstück haben wir zum Basiscamp umfunktioniert und halbwegs eingerichtet. Wie es…
11 June 2022
04 March 2022
Progress - Getting Rid of Stuff
The demolition work is progressing. The challenge now is to sell the components that are still usable. Will that work out?
04 March 2022
19 February 2022
First Steps in Lund

On the February long weekend (Family Day), we pack up our MINI and head to our

19 February 2022
09 February 2022
Lund - The Property
Our cabin at the Upper Sunshine Coast is situated on 5 acres in Lund, BC.
09 February 2022

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